If you're out for an evening stroll in Bandung, take a closer look at the little carts lining the streets. Some are frying chewy dough with a hint of garlic aroma, others are grilling rice flour batter over a clay stove, and some are selling yellowish cassava with a faint, distinctive alcoholic scent. These are the three snacks that have become part of Bandung's culinary identity: cireng, surabi, and peuyeum. But have we ever stopped to wonder where these three legendary snacks actually came from? It turns out that behind their simple flavors lies a long story of creativity, hardship, and the Sundanese people's love for local ingredients.
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Cireng: A Clever Solution in Hard Times
Cireng is short for "aci digoreng" (fried tapioca), and the name is exactly as literal as it sounds. Legend has it that this snack was born sometime in the 1970s-1980s, when the people of West Java were looking for ways to use tapioca flour (aci), which was much cheaper than wheat flour. Back then, wheat flour was still considered a "luxury" ingredient since it had to be imported, while cassava—the raw material for tapioca—grew abundantly in Sundanese fields.
Housewives began experimenting by mixing tapioca flour with garlic, scallions, and a little salt, then frying it until the outside turned crispy while the inside stayed chewy and slightly sticky. This textural sensation is what made cireng quickly beloved, especially when eaten hot with sambal rujak (sweet and spicy fruit chili sauce) or sweet-spicy peanut sauce.
Interestingly, cireng has kept evolving. Today we know cireng isi (stuffed cireng) with fillings like shredded chicken, cheese, and even beef sausage. Some small business owners in Bandung have even created modern versions of cireng filled with rendang or shredded beef floss—proof that this simple snack remains relevant to changing tastes without losing its true identity.
Why Is Cireng So Beloved?
- Its ingredients are cheap and easy to find at traditional markets
- Its texture is unique: crispy outside, chewy inside
- It pairs flexibly with all kinds of sauces and fillings
- It can be a home-based culinary business idea with very little capital
Surabi: A Culinary Trace from the Traditional Sundanese Kitchen
Unlike cireng, which is relatively "young," surabi has a much older history. Some oral accounts say surabi has existed since the era of the Sundanese kingdoms, made as a simple dish from rice flour mixed with coconut milk, then cooked over a clay stove with embers from charcoal or firewood.
Its distinctive cooking process—using a small clay mold called an anglo—gives it a natural smoky aroma that's hard to replicate with a modern gas stove. This is why traditional surabi from areas like Ciwidey or Setiabudi is often considered more authentic in flavor compared to mass-produced modern versions.
In the past, surabi was usually served plain, topped with spicy oncom (fermented soybean cake) or brown sugar syrup. But over time, especially since the 2000s, a modern version called surabi kekinian emerged, with toppings like chocolate, cheese, and even durian. Even so, many true culinary lovers remain loyal to surabi oncom—a savory-spicy combination that has become a beloved Sundanese comfort food.
The Philosophical Meaning Behind Surabi
Interestingly, in some Sundanese traditions, surabi often appears at small thanksgiving or blessing ceremonies. Its round shape is believed to symbolize togetherness and simplicity in life—values that are deeply tied to the general life philosophy of the Sundanese people.
Peuyeum: Fermentation That Became a Flavor Heritage
While cireng and surabi were born from cooking creativity, peuyeum came from a natural fermentation process that requires patience. Peuyeum is made from carefully selected cassava that is steamed, then given a special yeast starter and left to ferment for two to three days. The result is cassava with a soft texture, a distinctive sweet-sour taste, and a unique fermented aroma.
The Cimenyan area and other parts of East Bandung have been known as centers of high-quality peuyeum production for decades. It's said that this cassava fermentation tradition dates back to the colonial era, when people were looking for ways to preserve cassava so it wouldn't spoil quickly, while also increasing its market value.
It's important to note that the "alcoholic" aroma in peuyeum comes purely from the natural fermentation of cassava's carbohydrates by yeast, not from any added alcohol. The alcohol content is extremely minimal and evaporates during fermentation and after the cassava is fully fermented, so peuyeum remains safe and halal to consume, just like tape (fermented cassava) found in various regions across Indonesia.
Peuyeum in the Creative Hands of Bandung's Youth
Today, peuyeum isn't just eaten on its own. Many culinary entrepreneurs in Bandung have transformed it into:
- Colenak — grilled peuyeum drizzled with brown sugar sauce and grated coconut
- Es peuyeum (peuyeum ice) — combined with milk and shaved ice
- Bolu peuyeum (peuyeum sponge cake) — used as a mix-in for moist cake batter
These innovations prove that peuyeum, though rooted in old tradition, still has a place on the palates of today's generation.
Why Is This Story Important to Know?
Learning about the origins of cireng, surabi, and peuyeum isn't just about expanding our culinary knowledge—it also helps us appreciate the long process behind them. These three snacks were born out of hardship, patience, and a love for local ingredients—values that are truly relevant to bring into our own kitchens, especially when trying out traditional Sundanese recipes at home.
So, next time you bite into a warm cireng, enjoy a surabi oncom, or taste a sweet-and-sour peuyeum, take a moment to savor the story behind it. There are traces of history, creativity, and Sundanese cultural identity stored in every bite. Let's keep supporting Bandung's traditional snacks by buying them often from local vendors—not only are they delicious, but we're also helping preserve a culinary heritage that's truly priceless.
